After swapping the axles from the Waggy into my YJ and using the Waggy leafs for SOA I knew I was going to run into steering binding issues just by looking at it. After lots of research and thought I decided to go with the double arms from Rockstomper. These arms corrected all my immediate issues as well as the issues I'd have when I flip the leafs to extend the wheelbase (winter project). Placing the Tie Rod behind the axle also protects it from rocks, etc...
Steering Arms & Knuckles
For anyone going SOA, swapping axles and/or building custom steering linkage please do yourself and the rest of us on the road a favor and do not take shortcuts. First thing I did was find a set of Chev flat top knuckles. Chev knuckles use 6 bolt spindles and Ford uses 5. Using Chev knuckles means I could use all the Waggy components, direct swap. If I wanted to change my bolt pattern to 5x5.5 I could have used Ford knuckles, spindles, etc... but that's another writeup. Got a local shop to machine the pass knuckle flat and also drill and tap for the 5/8th mounting studs. They had the arms during this process just to ensure it was done perfect. If you don't have an experienced shop that's done knuckles before I'd suggest the same just to make sure everything lines up.
Ordered the double arms and 1" spacers along with 5/8th stud & conical washer kit. Stock studs and washers are 9/16th, well worth a bit extra and the SpiderTrax hardware is way beefy. Here are a few pics:

Steering Linkage
What I needed with for this application was 1.25 x .219 DOM tubing. This tubing is the proper ID to tap for 1 ton TRE's, 7/8-18. If you chose not to or don't have the means to tap the tubing you can buy the weld in bungs and get DOM with the correct ID. The process for the Tie Rod is pretty simple. Since I got the arms reamed for for the larger TRE's while being made, basically rough fit the TRE's, align the front tires (I use the "string method" my dad tought me LOL), measure the lengths for the tubing, cut & tap. Remember it's easier to cut down so measure on the long side as the DOM isn't cheap. I tapped the left first then measured again before tapping the right.

The Drag Link is the same process except you have to decide what to do with with the Pitman Arm. With my steering box in the stock location and the Waggy leafs long side out, I reamed out a Grand Cherokee arm which has a drop to it and it and made my drag link parallel with by tie rod. Great steering response and no bumpsteer.

Issues and Resolutions
Before anyone critics the shackle angle I'm now running Currie Boomerangs which corrected the angle with the longer leafs haha. OK the first issue I had was the arms clearing the balljoints. I actually had to grind some of the arm off so I could get full turning radius. This wasn't as bad as the Waggy calipers, actually the banjo bolt, not clearing the arms. After looking, mounting, looking & mounting I though... Hell looks like they'll work if I swap them sides. So low and behold I swaped the backing plates & calipers and the banjo bolt now cleared the arm. Yahoo I though! Till it came time the bleed the brakes! Since the calipers were swaped sides the bleeding nipple was now facing down so off came the calipers & rotors so I could basically turn the nipple up and bench bleed them. Lesson learned!
Conclusion
Other then the issues above, the build went pretty smooth. I love this steering setup and would recommend it to anyone. Next step is tapping and mounting the Waggy steering box I have for hydro assist.